Mexico City’s Greatest Hits

Written By Ashley Jaramillo
Jump to: Overview | Map | When & How Long to Visit | Where to Stay | What to See & Do | Historic Center | Reforma, Condesa-Roma and Polanco | Farther Afield | Where to Eat | Where to Drink | Where to Shop | Sample Itinerary

Overview of Mexico City

Mexico City, often referred to as CDMX (an acronym referring to the city’s name in Spanish, Ciudad de Mexico) draws gourmands and creatives from around the globe looking to experience the flavors, art and culture of Mexico’s capital. The city is both eclectic and electric—effortlessly fusing together traditions and folklore from the city’s past with the present. 

Weather / When to Visit: The weather in Mexico City is rather consistent year round and generally temperate due to its high elevation of over 7,000 feet, making it an especially great escape to visit during hot summer months in the U.S. (though note that summers are historically Mexico’s rainy season, making it the city’s low season). We were most recently in CDMX in July and it was lovely—mid-70s with very little rain (some brief afternoon showers here and there). We were told the high season is the fall (especially around Día de los Muertos in November) through early spring.

How Long to Visit: To truly immerse yourself in all Mexico City (and the surrounding areas) has to offer, we recommend staying for 4-5 days. You could easily stretch the visit into a week with some day/overnight trips nearby (see below).

Getting Around: The most reliable and safest way to get around Mexico City is by using Uber, which is generally available and inexpensive. We would recommend against taking public transportation, walking outside of major tourist areas or taking taxis unless called by your hotel or a restaurant (see more on safety below). Note, however, that Mexico City is sprawling and there is constant traffic, so we recommend grouping activities in your itinerary together geographically.

Customs & Mealtimes: Traditionally, lunch is the biggest meal of the day for Mexicans and is enjoyed in the later afternoon between 2-4 PM. Dinners are typically closer to 8 or 9 PM and are generally lighter. 

Health Tip: While the water in Mexico City is filtered at the city level and water and ice are generally OK to consume at popular restaurants, we’d recommend setting up an appointment with your doctor and traveling with a z-pack or course of azythromicin in the case you are the unfortunate vicitm of GI illness while traveling in Mexico City. Catching what is sometimes called “Montezuma’s Revenge” is extremely unpleasant and can lead to dehydration quickly, but is easily resolvable if you have medicine on hand and act quickly. 

Safety: Mexico City welcomes a large volume of tourists each year and it is generally safe to walk around popular tourist areas during the day, though rates of petty theft and robbery are generally higher than in the US and Europe. Leave the luxury watches and Love bracelets at home—play it safe and opt for costume jewelry and non-descript handbags. We would generally recommend visitors avoid walking around in the evening, especially alone. 

Polanco: Polanco is the swankiest neighborhood in Mexico City and is home to many upscale restaurants, shops and boutique hotels. If you are at all nervous about safety but want to stay in a walkable neighborhood, Polanco is your best bet. 

Condesa: Condesa has become a trendy area for expats (particularly Americans) featuring leafy squares, boutiques, lively nightlife and lots of delicious restaurants (both gastronomic and street food)—this was our favorite area to dine out in.

Colonia Roma: Colonia Roma is CDMX’s traditionally artsy, bohemian neighborhood featuring beautiful Art Nouveau architecture and some of the city’s breakout gastronomic restaurants. Still a bit rougher around the edges (especially relative to Condesa and Polanco; stick to beloved Roma Norte for lodging and exploring), Colonia Roma is a great pick for someone who wants to experience an edgier side of the city. 

Juarez/Reforma: Situated between Polanco and Condesa is Paseo de la Reforma, CDMX’s longest avenue and the location of many luxury chain hotels (Four Seasons, St. Regis, Ritz Carlton) in the city. Though not a particularly charming immediate area, it is generally safe, relatively central and borders the expansive and beautiful Chapultepec Park making it a popular destination for tourists and an up and coming hip neighborhood despite its city feel.

You should visit Mexico City’s historic center for a few hours for a few reasons—(1) to see the incredible murals on display at the Palacio de Bellas Artes, (2) to catch a Ballet Folklorico performance and (3) to eat at the famed El Cardenal restaurant. Otherwise, the historic center is extremely crowded and feels a bit seedy (we wouldn’t recommend you stay here either)—most of sprawling Mexico City’s best gems are a little further out. 


Palacio de Bellas Artes

A visit to the Palacio de Bellas Artes, Mexico City’s opera house, is not just a chance to catch a beautiful performance (indeed, the site is open to the public during the day as well) but also a look into gorgeous Art Nouveau and Art Deco architecture as well as breathtaking murals some some of Mexico’s finest artists. 

Murals: Mexican Muralism is one of the most important movements to emerge out of Mexico, spanning from the 1920s to the second half of the 20th century. The collection of murals at the Palacio de Bellas Artes is one of the most impressive worldwide featuring works by some of the most renowned Mexican Muralists including Jose Celemente Orozco and Diego Rivera, among others. Must see works include:

  • Diego Rivera - El Hombre Controlador del Universo (Man, Controller of the Universe), 1934

    • The history of this mural is almost as interesting as its artistic details. Originally created for the lobby of New York City’s Rockefeller Center (where it was titled Man at the Crossroads), the original mural was taken down as it portrays the threat of American capitalism and promise of communism represented by the USSR. In 1934, Rivera was invited to re-create the controversial work at the Palacio de Bellas Artes. 

    • While the mural is overwhelming—-bursting with color and figures—it is divided by a central axis and two diagonal ovals into six sections. At the center of the mural is a blond haired, blue eyed (query why Rivera picked this coloring) worker. To his right, Rivera depicts the brutalities of World War I (poison gas, guns and planes) fueled by capitalism and carried out by faceless, masked figures. Beneath this scene we see scenes of science and technology (can you spot Charles Darwin and his monkey?) as well as workers revolting as aristrocrats including bespectacled Nelson Rockefeller drink and play cards nearby. To the figure’s left, we see workers with communist-associated red berets. If you look a little lower, you will spot Lenin, Trotsky, Engels and Marx just under the defaced classical sculpture, which serves as a critique of traditional art history and high brow tastes.

  • Jose Clemente Orozco, Katharsis, 1934-1935

    • Painted contemporaneously with Rivera’s Man, Controller of the Universe, Orozco also criticizes war and politics in his work Katharsis. At the center of the work is a fight between man two men—one clothed, one naked, suggesting the struggle between the working class and bourgeoise—the scene spirals out and features high-tech weapons, machines, writhing bodies and several prostitutes who creepily smile at the viewer. These serve as symbols of the moral decay and decadence of the time period. The dramatic flames at the top of the mural symbolize a purifying fire that will make way for a new society.

  • Diego Rivera, Carnaval de la Vida Mexicana (Carnival of Mexican Life), 1936

    • This mural, split into four panels, originally adorned the walls of the Hotel Reforma. Like Man, Controller of the Universe, they were ultimately taken down, however, and stored out of sight due to their political content. The panels satirize the sociopolitical milieu in Mexico during the time. The most famous panel is La Dictadura which features a massive head blending features of Hitler, Mussolini, Roosevelt and Hirohito (and carrying a flag corresponding to these leaders’ countries). He also depicts Mexican President Plutarco Elias Calles, who he deeply criticized, surrounding the two political figures with various dancing, costumed creatures.

Ballet Folklorico: The palace was built under the government of Porfirio Diaz and was designed in the Art Nouveau style to celebrate Mexico’s independence in 1910. The building was completed in 1934 and is the home of the National Institute of Fine Arts. While programming at the Palacio de Bellas Artes often changes, performances by the Ballet Folklorico de Mexico have been routinely offered for 60 years. Founded by Amalia Hernandez in 1952, the troupe’s music and dances reflect various regions and their traditions throughout Mexico and is a wonderful way to spend an evening in CDMX.

Plaza de la Constitution (“Zocalo”)

If you find yourself in the Centro Historico, the Plaza de la Constitution (more commonly known as “Zocalo”) is worth a stop and is CDMX’s main square. Prior to the colonial period, it served as the ceremonial center in the Aztec city of Tenochtitlan (there are some insightful 3D models just off the Plaza de la Constitution that reflect this). Contrary to what its name suggests, Zocalo’s history is unrelated to the constitution of Mexico and rather refers to the Constitution of Cadiz which was signed in Spain in 1812. Despite proclaiming Roman Catholicism as the sole legal religion of Spain, the constitution is actually considered one of the most liberal of its time affirming national sovereignty as well as separation of powers among governmental branches (specifically, it set up a constitutional monarchy with a parlimentary system) and establishing freedom of the press and enterprise. Today, it remains an important gathering place for Mexican political, cultural and religious events.

La Ciudadela

Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela is an artisanal market where you can buy traditional Mexican handicrafts. Look out for pieces made from Guerreren silver (weighed and sold by the gram), textiles from Oaxaca, traditional decorative masks and ceramics from Chiapas.

The best things to do in these three areas are walk around and explore local shops and restaurants, but there are couple of historical places worth a stop as well.

Museo Nacional de Anthropologia

The Museo Nacional de Anthopologia contains the world’s largest collection of Mexican art and is one of the best anthropology museums in the world. We highly recommend you stop by for a few hours, ideally with the help of a guide, given how impressive and massive the collection is (there are 23 permanent exhibition halls). If you decide to wander through on your own, here are the can’t miss highlights:

  • Piedra del Sol: The infamous Aztec sunstone which was unearthed in 1790 is an archaeological marvel and must-see. Weighing 24 tons, the stone has mystified archaeologists for centuries and no common conclusion on its meaning has been reached. The stone nonetheless is one of Mexico’s most impressive artifacts (so much so that it is featured on the back of the Mexican peso).

  • El Paraguas: Iconic installation El Paraguas in the center of the museum deserves its own moment of appreciation. Constructed in 1964 out of concrete, it provides a constant and quite loud stream of water whose mist transports the viewer into times past.

  • Moctezuma’s Headdress: Aztec ruler Moctezuma II is said to have worn (a replica of) this spectacular headdress made with feathers from peacocks and quetzals. The original headdress remains in Vienna and is the subject of much controversy, but it is impactful to view this replica in the context of other Mexican artifacts.

  • Statue of Xochipilli: Aztec god of art, games and dance, Xochipilli, is depicted in this statue, the base of which features ceremonial plants. 

  • Pakal’s Jade Funerary Mask: The museum has created a replica of Mayan ruler Pakal I’s tomb which houses his famed jade green funerary mask.

Chapultepec Castle

Located in the sprawling Chapultepec park, this beautifully landscaped castle is worth a visit and the walk up hill will help you work up an appetite before you dive into the tacos.

Art Galleries

Roma Norte is home to some beautiful art galleries where shoppers can bring home a piece of local art to commemorate their trip. Our favorites included Mooni, Elias Gallery, Galería Metropolitana-UAM, Chic by Accident and Galería Otra Cosa Sin Nombre. 

Teotihuacán Pyramids

The Teotihuacán Pyramids are some of the best preserved pyramids in the world, dating back to 100 B.C. There are three main structures here—the Pyramid of the Sun, the Pyramid of the Moon and the Temple of the Feathered Serpent. While these cannot be climbed, they can be admired from far away. Running down the center of the complex is a 1.2 mile corridor known as the Avenue of the Dead which immerses the viewer in the pre-Colombian world. To visit the pyramids it is essential you pre-book a guided tour as they are over an hour away from Mexico City and there is not much nearby. We recommend bringing something to eat with you and having a late lunch upon your return (this is what we opted for; our tour was 6 hours in total from 10 - 4 PM) or booking a multi-stop full day tour that includes a lunch stop.

Museo Frida Kahlo + La Casa Azul (+ Coyocan neighborhood)

One of the most iconic sites in Mexico City is the blue house that was home to Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera. The museum is extremely small and is located about 45 minutes from the center of Mexico City so pair it with an afternoon spent wandering the streets of charming Coyoacan and perhaps lunch (at Los Parrados or Mercado de Coyocan). 

Lucha Libre

Lucha Libre is a high-drama, costumed wrestling match where masked wrestlers get oiled up and acrobatically fight. There are three arenas in Mexico City where you can watch Lucha Libre with the post popular being Arena Mexico in Colonia Doctores. For a more retro experience, check out Arena Coliseo in Colonia Cuauhtemoc. Saturday night is the most popular and festive night so reserve well in advance if you’re interested.

Xochimilco

Xochimilco, meaning “floating gardens”, is a series of canals that are dotted with colorful boats. Locals mainly visit this area, which is about 45 minutes from the city center, on Sundays after church. 

Much of CDMX’s rise to popularity was fueled by its impressive culinary scene, which generally falls into three categories: fine dining, classic/traditional food and street food. After eating our way through the city we have a take as hot as the chili arbol salsa we enjoyed alongside nearly every meal: unless you’re a true gourmand, feel free to skip the fine dining and stick to the classics and street food. Yes, you read that right—allow us to explain.

Street Food & Taquerias

Mexico City is the mecca of street food and we recommend you seriously indulge. Though we are normally keen to find hidden gems and stray off the beaten path, in order to avoid GI issues we recommend sticking to what’s been well reviewed by your hotel and trusted media publications. It is also generally a good sign if you spot locals eating at an establishment. 

  • Maizajo (Downstairs Taqueria): Located in the cool Roma Norte neighborhood, Maizajo is the brainchild of Chef Santiago Munoz Moctezuma and features a downstairs taqueria and upstairs restaurant in an industrial chic mansion. Our favorite bites were the rib eye taco topped with super thin fried potatoes (trust us), the lamb flautas and their new flan. If you visit on your last day, pick up a pack of their homemade, airtight tortillas which last for 2-3 days at room temp and can be frozen for a month.

  • Tacos Don Juan: This Condesa taqueria has been a hit since 1982 and is an excellent spot to enjoy quesabirria (tacos loaded with cheese and uberumami goat meat). Another must-order is a costra de queso which resembles a taco but instead of a tortilla, the fillings are served on a seared cheese shell. This is so delicious we cannot believe it exists.

  • Los Parados: Tacos al pastor loves unite! With locations in Roma as well as in Coyoacan (they pair very well with the Frida Khalo museum), Los Parados is THE place to go for tacos al pastor. Ask for your meat extra crispy and they will sear the pork after it is cut off the spit. Their specialty and a must-order are the tacos de chile poblano con queso taco which is sautéed poblano peppers with cheese (lots of salsa is encouraged). 

  • El Pescadito: With several locations throughout the city, El Pescadito serves up super fresh fish tacos, the best of which are fried and smothered in salsa. 

  • Taqueria El Califa de Leon: Only in Mexico City can you find a taqueria with a Michelin Star because the cooking is THAT outstanding. Taqueria El Califa de Leon offers their signature Gaoenera tacos (thinly sliced beef cooked to order) on made to order tortillas. The tight, simple menu is perfection and worth a stop. 

  • Castacan: Castacan serves up irresistible lechón (suckling pig with crispy skin) and cochinita (slow roasted pork) tacos (as well as Mexican sandwiches called tortas, which are not to be skipped) in Roman Norte. Helmed by Gabriela Cámara of Contramar fame, Castacan is a must-stop for meat lovers.

  • Churreria el Moro: Yes you have seen this churro everywhere on social media and yes it lives up to the hype. Thankfully there are several locations throughout CDMX where you can pick up a freshly fried and sugared churro con chocolate.

Classics & Traditional Fare

  • Azul Condesa: If you’re searching for traditional Mexican cuisine, Azul Condesa is your place. Created by the guy who wrote the book on Mexican cuisine (literally—OG chef Ricardo Munoz Zurita has written nearly 10 books on Mexican cuisine since he came on the scene in 1996 including the Encylcopedic Dictionary of Mexican Gastronmy in 2012), Azul elegantly mixes Mexican flavors with history and each dish includes an in-depth description of its ingredients and history. The moles were outstanding as was the huitlacoche esquites and the super-spicy mezcalatias. After an indulgent meal, don’t miss the traditional Mexican hot chocolate on their dessert menu which is more like an ultra dark, spiced chocolate tea (it is steeped in water). Azul also has several other locations throughout the city which can be useful depending on where you’d like to slot the meal into your trip.

  • El Cardenal: If you’re hungry while exploring the Zocalo, you’re in for a treat—stop by El Cardenal a local institution that opened in 1969 which serves excellent breakfast (the chilaquiles are next level) and lunch. They don’t take reservations so expect a wait.

  • Sunday Brunch at Zanaya: We are as shocked as you are that we are recommending a hotel restaurant and brunch (let alone brunch at a hotel restaurant) but Sunday brunch at the Four Seasons’ Zanaya is a fiesta you don’t want to miss. Featuring live music, spit roasted meats and live action stations showcasing local delicacies, brunch at Zanaya is beloved by locals and tourists alike (so book well in advance if you’d like to attend).

  • Maizajo (Upstairs Restaurant): Part of the three-in-one concept helmed by chef Santiago Munoz Moctezuma, Maizajo’s upstairs restaurant expands on the corn-centric street food concept offering a menu of Mexican dishes including not to be missed wedding tamales, tostadas and more. Reservations are available online or over the phone.

Fine Dining

  • Pujol: It all started with Pujol. In 2000, 24 year old Enrique Olvera opened fine dining restaurant Pujol highlighting the past, present and future of Mexican cuisine. His cooking elevates traditional Mexican ingredients and techniques—think mole that has been fermented for over 15 years, indigenous insects and heirloom corn—and has led Pujol to skyrocket to fame on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants List, has earned two Michelin stars and is now considered one of the best restaurants in the world. Indeed, visionary Olvera is largely credited for putting the Mexico City fine dining scene on the map at a global level and he still dominates the city’s food scene today. It seems every hit restaurant today (Quintonil, Maximo Bistro, Contramar) has some tie to Pujol or Olvera. We ate at Pujol earlier this year and while we enjoyed our meal very much, it was neither our favorite meal in Mexico City nor one of our favorite tasting menus of the last several years. There were certainly some highs, namely their legendary mole which is served with the most delightful tortillas as well as a succulent lamb dish, as well as some lows (an amberjack tostada which was texturally quite challenging) but upon reflecting on the meal several days later, there were several courses that we struggled to remember at all which left us hesitant to recommend it, especially at over $200 a head. We are grateful to have dined at this elegant and historically important restaurant, but you have our permission to skip Pujol and spend your money on a cool art piece to take home or 100 street tacos.

  • Contramar/Entremar: Contramar and sister-restaurant Entremar (which feature the same menu) are breakout gastronomic stars in CDMX serving a seafood focused menu primarily for lunch and dinner. We absolutely loved the food we were served—anything that includes the seasonal fish al pastor should not be missed as well as the pescado Zarandeado which is a dish native to the Nayarit region (west coast of Mexico near Puerto Vallarta) and consists of a very large, filleted fish covered in deeply flavorful green and red sauces. The cocktails here were also excellent. However, we were disappointed by the service which felt cold, rushed and somewhat random—our dishes came out from the kitchen rather haphazardly; several in our party finished their entrees before others got appetizers.

  • Maximo Bistro: French inspired Maximo Bistro is the new darling of Mexico City’s culinary scene. Housed in an ultra cool warehouse space and offering an ever-changing seasonal menu (available both as a tasting menu and a la carte), Maximo has become one of the toughest tables to score in CDMX. We joined for dinner and enjoyed roasted cauliflower which was served with a sort of cream sauce, gratineed onion that recalled French onion soup and was served with a croissant muffin, pasta with oxtail ragout, crab ravioli and a lovely passion fruit dessert. The restaurant is also known for its extensive wine list featuring up and coming Mexican wine producers which was fun to explore alongside our meal. While we had a wonderful night at Maximo, it was by far the heaviest (creamiest, butteriest) meal we had and again we longed for the spice and zest of the street food and traditional dishes we tried.

  • Licoreria Limantour (Roma Norte): We had the chance to spend some time with the owner of Licoreria Limantour during an unforgettable night in CDMX. A regular on the World’s 50 Best Bars list (currently no. 7), Licoreria Limantour offers innovative cocktails and a party across two buzzy floors. 

  • Fifty Mils (Juarez): Some of Latin America’s top mixologists can be found working their magic at Fifty Mils, a must-visit Mexico City haunt housed in the Four Seasons which was listed onThe World’s 50 Best Bars list in 2018. The cocktail program is both luxurious (as would be expected for the Four Seasons) and local—one of the best cocktails we enjoyed was made using a local corn liqueur.

  • Handshake Speakeasy (Juarez): At Handshake Speakeasy, bar director Eric van Beek uses molecular mixology to craft drinks that look classic but offer complex, innovative flavors. Another World’s 50 Best Bars favorite, Handshake Speakeasy has become extremely popular and reservations are necessary (they are available 2 weeks in advance).

  • Brujas (Roma Norte): Taking its namesake from its location in the historic Casa de las Brujas (or house of the witches), Brujas is a female-led cocktail bar serving cocktails rooted in Mexican herbalism.

  • Onora (Polanco) - Onora is a wonderful home goods store in the midst of the ritzy Polanco area that partners with Mexican artisans to provide shoppers with an ultra-curated selection of traditional homewares and textiles.

  • La Ciudela (Centro Historico) -  See above for an in-depth description. La Ciudela is a traditional Mexican handicrafts market near the historic center where shoppers can find everything from pottery to textiles to replica traditional masks. Some of our favorite stops were at the marble dealers where ornate marble goods (decorative chess sets, candle sticks, bowls, etc.) are on offer as well as the ceramics stores which sold beautiful tiles inspired by Loteria, a Mexican card game reminiscent of Bingo.

  • Mooni Gallery (Condesa and Roma Norte) - Mooni Gallery is a hip art gallery with locations in both Condesa and Roma Norte. Their works are by South and Central American (primarily Mexican) artists and include original works as well as prints which can be shipped (framed) or packed (unframed).

  • Galería Otra Cosa Sin Nombre (Roma Norte) - This gallery was one of our favorites in Mexico City and flies under the radar in trendy Roma Norte. It primarily features works by Mexican artists and has a great selection at every price point.

Day 1: Morning walk through Chapultepec Park with stop at Museo Nacional de Antropología (allow 2-3 hours, consider booking a tour). Afternoon/evening taco tour through Condesa and Roma Norte with stops at galleries and shops. End the evening with drinks at Licoreria Limantour.

Day 2: Visit La Ciuadela for shopping (allow 1-2 hours). Head to historic center and stop at the Zocalo and Palacio des Bellas Artes to admire the murals. Stop midway through for a lunch/early dinner at El Cardenal before seeing the Ballet Folklorico. If you’re still hungry, enjoy some late night tacos.

Day 3: Visit the Teotihuacán Pyramids (allow 4-6 hours and be sure to book a tour; eat a large breakfast followed by late lunch and bring snacks as there is little to eat nearby). Walk around ritzy Polanco neighborhood and stop for drinks in the afternoon. Dinner at Azul Condesa. Check out one of our recommended cocktail bars after.

Day 4: Visit Coyoacan neighborhood and stop at Frida Kahlo’s home for a visit (allow 1 hour). Enjoy lunch nearby the main square (we recommend Los Parados) and churros after. Then either head to Xochimilco or back to Chapultepec Park for the afternoon. Check out Maizajo’s upstairs restaurant for dinner.

Ashley Jaramillo